Thursday, July 19, 2007

Bella Sicilia

It's hot, the motorbikes whoosh past carrying toddlers, the traffic is thick, there's lots of hand waving, horn honking and pasta eating, the fish market is totally wild, never seen such a large sword fish, with a round staring eye, cut in half.
Palermo's streets are narrow and crossing the road is an act of courage, blind faith in the hand of God and simple hope that the driver will value not going to prison for killing a tourist.
Catania is under the bubbling gaze of Etna, I walked in black sand, burned under the hot sun, met some great people and ate good tuna steak like none before, all tender and covered in caramelised tomatoes.
The talk of the mafia is odd, a movement I know only from film and TV series, but that's present here, and one that makes life difficult for so many ordinary people. Tomorrow off to Syracuse and down the coast in search of the non-beaten track. Will post from there and have more details.
Until then, saluti.

Thursday, June 07, 2007

Big City Thrills

Walking down Cambridge Heath Road the other night, past a strip joint marked by a neon outline of a woman and her dancing pole, our friend A, an eccentric Lebanese woman whom I hadn't seen for a while and had just bumped into, speaks to a gaunt woman outside the strip joint. The gaunt woman - obviously a junky - is holding a large glass recepticle of some sort, like the thing you put spaghetti in, but much bigger. "Will you sell me the bottle?" A asks. A is of a very small build, with a high-pitched voice and a lilting Cockney accent, and looks about 15. So, "Will you sell me the bottle?" she says. The woman hops from the rock-hard bouncers that she'd been talking to and towards us. "I'll sell it to you for a fiver" she says, lilting her head on the stalk of a neck. "Oh no, I won't buy it for a fiver!" shrieks A, "but I'll give you a kiss!"
"Eugh!" says the woman. "I'm not a lesbian!" And her face is scrunched up with disgust.

We carry on walking when the woman starts running after us. "Wait!" We stop. She thrusts the recepticle/bottle/whatever it was to Rafa, who receives it compliantly. She grabs A and starts kissing her cheeks and hugging her. It's a bizarre scene. A then gives her some coins, amounting to about £1.50, and says: "I don't have a fiver, but this is all I've got. Enjoy it, but don't go doing silly things with it, like smoking fags or stuff like that!" The woman calls A a sweetheart and kisses her more, and all the while A is giggling, enjoying the situation. R and I stand around watching and laughing, a bit confused. We're not sure who the show is for, and whether this is a normal part of A's life.

We carry on walking towards the Underground, and the woman is walking with us. "My name is Tracey" she says. We introduce ourselves. She can't pronounce or comprehend my name. She asks A her age. A says: "I'm as old as the oak trees" and Tracey goes: "Eh?" A never wants to reveal her age, and we try to convince Tracey that even we don't know how old she is. "I'm fir'y free.' Tracey reveals. She smells of booze. Her legs shiver as she walks, but she seems lucid enough. "I've got two daughters, one's 15 and the other 8. They's in Australia at the moment." She was 17 when she had her first child, I think. She doesn't look like she's even given birth, her body is so tiny.
"Where you going now?" She asks A.
"I'm going drinking!"
R and I nod to each other that we're going home.
"Come with me," Tracey says, and grabs A by the arm. "My dad owns a pub down the road, let's go and get pissed."

The two women scuttle across the street. The pub is called The Dundee Arms and is open past 11pm. Tracey and A enter, while R and I go home with Tracey's vast glass thing, chucking it in the park by the Tube. It's an ugly thing.

Tracey's dad doesn't own the pub, but a man sits in a corner on a velcro settee. The pub's a nasty yellow colour, coated with fag smoke. Tracey drags A to sit down: "This is Bob. He's my mate."
A shakes his hand. Bob and Tracey hug each other, and she sits close to him, her skinny leg looking like a toothpick next to his slabby thigh. "I've known Bob for years" she says. "Go on, buy us a drink then!"
Bob goes to the bar and brings back pints of lager and shots of whiskey. Tracey downs the whiskeys first and then gulps the beer. She's getting wasted, but A's enjoying the atmosphere. It seems that this is it for them, for Tracey at least, this is what she lives for, and it's good to be in the company of people - at least every once in a while - who are right here in the moment, who aren't chasing anything, but have what they need right in front of them. Of course, A knows that this isn't a life at all, but it's the moment she's cherishing. Bob seems to enjoy getting Tracey drunk and Tracey gives him affectionate, glazed glances, eye lids half-mast. A is getting a bit drunk too.

We emerge at Holborn, and in front of us is a young black guy, with tiny thin legs and enormous feet. He's walking as if he's a mime artist pretending to be sneaking up on someone. He wears a beany hat, which he takes off and scratches his head, and looks inside the hat before putting it back on. We cross the street leaving him behind. I turn around to see what he's doing and see him getting a large metal thing out of his pocket and clumsily undoing a front wheel of a bicycle tied to a railing. He takes the wheel off after some fumbling and walks his spidery walk with the wheel under his arm.

A lady is rummaging through bags of flowers outside the florists on Great Queen Street. She takes out a bunch of bluebells and goes into a house. R and I rummage through the bags too, unearthing eucalyptus, geranium and nettles. We take them all, plus some bluebells and go home. Tracey's glass thing would have been useful as a vase.

Thursday, May 10, 2007

Best of...

This week I's been mostly:
- Writing the London guide and realising what a different job it is to write about a place you live in - like London - and how overly relaxed one can get until one realises that the 'deadline fire' is too close to one's ass. Which has happened to me.

Why is it that deadlines can only be respected when they get too close for comfort? A bit like thugs, wouldn't you say? You're kind of aware of them, fear them just slightly, but you keep thinking that if you ignore them for long enough, they'll go away. But these deadline thugs just keep edging closer, until they are rubbing your face in the proverbial dust and you're going: "OK, OK, I'll never ignore you again! I promise!" And even though you really mean it at the time of saying it (with tears in your eyes), you know you're lying. Because you've done it before. And you'll do it again. Just as long as you're given the chance to work again.

I realised that my main pleasure lies in getting the gig. That moment, when they say: "Would you like to do such & such a thing..." I feel elated, victorious, exonerated (they have yet again recognised my genius), fabulous. A day later, I am feeling the deadline dread, and the cycle begins again. I have therefore decided that I am: a) shallow and superficial, and b) have a bizarre hunter's instinct, which means that the moment my pray is down, I am not interested.

- The gym lured me after 5 months of repelling me. I went to a class called 'Fat Attack' where an overly muscular lady hammered every single muscle in my body with techno music and exhuberant exercise. I was wiped. But kind of happy. Now even my neck muscles hurt. I don't remember my neck muscles ever letting me know they exist. My thighs are sort of numb and raw at the same time. I'm going back for more next week.

- I read about the Boots no7 anti-wrinkle cream and how people of all ages and genders went to queue at 5am to get some. Apparently Boots have had this cream forever, but a BBC programme had shown that it really works (science and all that), and suddenly Britain went bonkers and found themselves queuing at dawn for anti-wrinkle cream. Judging by the numbers, more people went to buy the cream than protest against the Iraq war. What's going on with old Blighty? Has everyone become consumer crazy? I think so.

- Tony Blair's gone. Let's see what Brown does.

- That's it. What about all of you? Come on, write to me about what you're all doing in your spare time. May this blog be your oyster (not of the London Underground description, though).

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

Underground

I emerged, fresh as a breadcrumb, from London Underground. Hoping to find a bin. Impossible. There are no bins anywhere, and as I walked towards Terminal 2 of Heathrow Airport, my paper coffee cup still attached to my hand, I asked a man if there was a bin nearby. He was standing behind the 'Information' counter, arms crossed, leaning on the wall. "You can drop your cup here", he said pointing at the bin next to him. I extended my arm, giving him the cup to drop into the bin that I couldn't reach myself. He said: "Walk around, drop it yourself, I don't want to handle your rubbish." I walked around: "It's just a paper cup. I'm not offering you the insides of my intestines" I said. "Yeah, but I don't want to touch other people's stuff." He said, arms still crossed. "It won't bite you, you know" I retorted, wishing I could go and lick his face, transmit my germs.

Upstairs, at the terminal, they made announcements about unattended luggage being destroyed, children not riding on trolleys, and liquids not being allowed on board. Laptops have to be taken out of your bag at security. Passports have to be digitised. Tickets have to be sterilised and suitcases monitored. Umbrellas can't be taken onto airplanes. Shoes have to be taken off.

I said goodbye to my mother (whose hand cream was packed into an airtight bag by airport attendants) and went down to the Underground again. Someone stood up for an elderly lady. I remembered how, months ago, making the same journey back into central London, I stood up to offer a blind woman a seat. She said: "Why?! I'm not THAT old yet!!" I sat back down in perhaps the biggest gobsmackification in my life. The rest of the carriage was flabbergasted too, I could tell, behind their newspapers.

I then read about Japanese toilets which play music while you poo and then wash your ass and perfume it. I wondered if the airport guy who wouldn't touch my paper cup might touch my ass after I had it washed by a Japanese toilet. As you may know, the Japanese are mightily embarrassed by any bodily functions and noises, such as nose-blowing and doing a numero uno or numero dos at the toilet. So they've invented this toilet where you have Ave Maria playing as you shit, so that no one can hear you (and they have these toilets at home, too, they're not just public loos), and once you're done, it washes and blowdries your asski, and some even give it a woof of aromatherapy.

The idea of listening to Beethoven or Mozart while doing a poo is odd. The music of the world's greatest composers has not only been turned into two-tone telephone rings, it now serves to cover up the 'plonk!' too. Talk about providing service to the people.

I emerged, again, light as armoured cement, and tried to cross the street at a sort of unofficial crossing in Covent Garden, with a large Mercedes lightly edging closer to my legs. A man inside was gesturing 'this is not a crossing for you' and I thought of how life is different when you're behind the wheel and when you're not. When you're in your car, moving on is the most important thing in the world. You can't wait for a second to let people pass, because it seems, you're inside a vehicle, it should be moving, not waiting for people to faff about and cross the street. I am the same when I'm inside a car. I couldn't care less about anyone crossing. Yet, when I'm the pedestrian, I think that stopping to let people cross is the utmost sign of civilisation.

Anyway, Yeltsin is dead. Democracy is alive and kicking in Russia. Blair is sad Yeltsin is dead and Baroness Thatcher thinks he should be honoured as a hero. Tony Blair's government is trying to silence the man who wants to run an enquiry into why the British government is trading arms with Saudi Arabia, buying dodgy airplanes and supressing corruption investigations. I think a good ass-wash would do us all some good. Try the Saki restaurant in 4 West Smithfield, apparently they have them there.

Wednesday, April 11, 2007

Young Gifted and Black

Yes, I know I'm not black. But the title is all about the great Nina Simone who sung that song as part of her stand with the Civil Rights movement in the 1960s and there's a video of her on YouTube where she sings it at a gig and it must be one of the most moving performances ever.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDNAz2HrI_o&mode=related&search=

It's brilliant, and Nina Simone is beautiful in an African dress and hairdo, with her signature deadpan expression breaking up slightly under the emotion of the song. Ah, the times when artists stood for something.
Check it out.

Monday, March 26, 2007

Ah, Spring, finally

It's sunny, life feels good, despite the fact that I am stuck at my desk (which often doubles as a dinner table) for the entire week with deadlines pressing at my temples (to be poetic). It feels good to at least be able to gaze up from the screen and see the blue stretching above the roof tops, and pretend that I am not feeling nervous about it disappearing within minutes, like any Londoner worth his salt might feel.
You know the anxiety, the tremour of the soul when you see the sun in London? The 'Shit, I'd better put on my bikini and get out there while it still lasts!' panic, which results in white, pasty bodies on weak, early-spring grass, still wet from the melted snow. My early England memories of this are always accompanied with 'now I understand', when I remember the family I was living with getting a paddling pool outside and sunbathing on a day I spent sitting in my jumper and waving my head in severe culture shock. They looked like those Siberians who crack the ice and snow with their shovel, and dive into the freezing water with a look of delight on their faces. It's good for the heart. Only my heart was broken then (in 1993) with the thoughts of the lovely Mediterranean spring that was happening in my homeland, while I had to settle for 10 degrees, a paddling pool and prickly grass strands. Anyway my dears, 15 years on, I am used to it all, and loving it. Spring is here.
Incidentally, that's what my name means in Russian, for those of you who don't know. Vesna = Spring. BECHA in cyrillic.
I am off to Seville this week, for the Easter parades. The blog should revive then, as it always does when I travel. Await those photos of the mad Sevillanos in ku klux klan-like attire, vowing to la Virgen that they will be good boys and girls.

Tuesday, March 06, 2007

An eventful month

Another month, another silence. But resurfacing in the face of March, on a starry evening after an eclipsed moon weekend, here's the summary of the month.

A TRIESTE WEEKEND
Wrote a piece for Ryanair's new inflight magazine, about James Joyce in Trieste. Was amazed by the number of ex-Yugoslavs, and the large Orthodox church (Serbian) from 186-something. The place itself was lovely, really, good food and nice people, save for the undercurrent of hatred btwn the Italians and Slavs, grasped from various comments and graffiti like "Slavi di merda" across walls. Felt great. Walked across the road and saw Slovene cigarette packets squashed on the asphalt and thought that some of the Triestines may hate the Slavs, but they still smoke our fags, and hey, that's what the world's all about. Demand and supply. Always plenty of demand for hate and fags. And supply of the same.

A FLAMENCO WEEKEND
Went for dinner in Moro, after years of dreaming of eating there (nose pressed on the glass as rich diners averted their gazes from my famished features), in the most bizarre of circumstances: not hungry (don't worry, I ate), 11 o'clock at night, with a flamenco band. Translated the menu from Spanish to the artists who, in their gypsy manner of couldn't-care-less-for-glitzy-food, ordered fried eggs and chips - so very much off the menu that it was practically in a king's + kebab shop, if you see my meaning. Rafa, embarrased, asked me what I think about asking Sam Clarke to ask his chef to fry eggs and chips on a Saturday night, and I, unperturbed for I am from Bosnia-Herzegovina, where this sort of thing may occur easily, said 'Hey, they're VIP, they can do this and still look hip.' And Sam Clarke, bemused, agreed and the flamenco guys got their eggs'n'chips, which they said were not necessarily better than those from their local taqueria. Anyway, such is the artistic world that one can never really predict what sorts of adventures may befall a young lady - or a high-class chef - in their company.

I really want the Spring to start now. Now.